Benutzer:Rdiez/BuyingALightBulb: Unterschied zwischen den Versionen
Aus /dev/tal
Rdiez (Diskussion | Beiträge) (Buying a light bulb used to be easy) |
Rdiez (Diskussion | Beiträge) |
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! title= |LED Watt | ! title= |LED Watt | ||
! title= |Energy-saver Watt | ! title= |Energy-saver Watt | ||
+ | ! title= |Halogen Watt | ||
+ | ! title= |Col temp | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | 40 | + | | 40 W |
− | | 400 | + | | 400 lm |
− | | 8 | + | | 8 W |
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | | |
− | | | + | | 480 lm |
+ | | 5 W | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | | 60 W |
− | | | + | | 720 lm |
− | + | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | | 80 W |
− | | 1, | + | | 1,000 lm |
+ | | 20 W | ||
|- | |- | ||
− | | | + | | 100 W |
− | | 1, | + | | 1,200 lm |
|- | |- | ||
− | | 200 | + | | 150 W |
− | | 10,000 | + | | 1,700 lm |
+ | |- | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 1,900 lm | ||
+ | | 23 W | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 3200 K (too cold) | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 2,700 lm | ||
+ | | 28 W | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 3000 K (a little too cold) | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 2,800 lm | ||
+ | | 30 W | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 3000 K (a little too cold) | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 3,000-3,250 lm | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | | ||
+ | | 160 W | ||
+ | | 2800-2900 K (warm) | ||
+ | |- | ||
+ | | 200 W | ||
+ | | 10,000 lm | ||
|} | |} | ||
Version vom 9. November 2014, 22:10 Uhr
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Inhaltsverzeichnis
Buying a light bulb used to be easy
Buying a light bulb used to be really easy, but that changed with the arrival of energy-saving models.
It is very hard to buy a quality light bulb. I have often bought from "good" brand names and got disappointed.
Here is a feature list:
- Brightness.
Unfortunately, the lumen values are not linear, especially from 2,000 Lumen. I don't know the maths. If you can help, please drop me a line. This is the table I have been using for reference:
Incasdencent Watt Lumen LED Watt Energy-saver Watt Halogen Watt Col temp 40 W 400 lm 8 W 480 lm 5 W 60 W 720 lm 80 W 1,000 lm 20 W 100 W 1,200 lm 150 W 1,700 lm 1,900 lm 23 W 3200 K (too cold) 2,700 lm 28 W 3000 K (a little too cold) 2,800 lm 30 W 3000 K (a little too cold) 3,000-3,250 lm 160 W 2800-2900 K (warm) 200 W 10,000 lm
- Color temperature. 2700K is best. 3000K might be described as "soft, warm white", but you'll notice the difference.
- Turn-on speed.
- Lifespan.
- Cycling endurance.
- Clear or frosted glass.
- Noise.
- Dimmable.
- Physical robustness.
- Operating temperature.
Compact fluorescent lamp (CFL)
I am particulary dissatisfied with compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) technology, especially after all the hype.
Its many drawbacks are:
- Expensive.
- Slow to turn on.
- Often last much shorter als advertised, due to low cycling endurance.
- Noisy. Most CFLs make a humming noise that you may notice in a quiet environment.
- Cold light colour.
- Normally not dimmable.
- The light bulb itself is also ugly.
- Contain toxic mercury (quicksilver) which complicates their disposal.
- They turn darker with time.
On the bright side, they consume very little electricity.
LED lamp
LED lamps have a few drawbacks:
- Expensive.
- Weak. I just cannot find powerful LED lamps. The ones I see around are too weak for the living room.
They win in every other category.
Halogen lamps
Advantages:
- Cheap.
- Fast to turn on.
- Bright.
Drawbacks:
- High electricity consumption compared to CFLs or LEDs.
- Dimmable, but you often get a hummy noise when dimmed from the power supply.
- They get very hot, so:
- They tend to turn darker (they 'cook') with time.
- If you touch one during operation, you'll get burnt.
- Careful when cold too. Fingertip oil may make them even hotter and damage them.
- Some halogen bulbs shed a cold light.
Fluorescent tubes
Pros:
- Cheap.
- Powerful.
- Consume little electricity.
Cons:
- Big, long.
- The starters break down often.
- Cold colour.
- Slow to turn on.
- Poor cycling endurance.
- Humming noise.
- Not dimmable.
- Brittle.